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  • Zucchini Golden 20 Seeds


    Zucchini Golden 20 Seeds

    Cucurbita pepo

    Spacing. Space plants 2 to 4 feet apart to provide air circulation and discourage disease. A good planting strategy is to plant zucchini on low hills that easily warm in spring. Sow three seeds to a hill and when seedlings have one true leaf, thin the starts to one per hill—just snip off the weakest plants with scissors so as not to disturb the roots of the one that remains.

    Pollination. Zucchini is a monoecious plant, meaning each plant has both male and female flowers. A female flower has a small swelling (the ovary) at the base of its short-stem. A male flower has a long, thin stem—and is usually larger than the female. Bees and insects must visit the male flower then the female flower for pollination.

    Cross pollination. Do squash plants easily cross pollinate? Yes! But cross-pollination affects next year’s crop, not this year’s crop. If you grow zucchini from newly purchased seed each year, you won’t have to worry about plants cross pollinating. Only if you save seed, should you grow just one variety at a time.

    Chilling injury. Temperatures too cold will pit the skin of zucchini. This is called chilling injury. Keep a floating row cover handy to cover seedlings and young plants if the temperature dips below 65°F at night.

    Watering. Keep the soil evenly moist. Give zucchini 1 inch of water a week. The critical time for watering is during bud development and flowering. Once plants are established, mulch with straw, hay, or dried leaves to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Drought stressed plants are more susceptible to insect attacks.

    Feeding. Zucchini are heavy feeders. Prepare the planting bed with lots of organic matter—a few inches of aged compost spread across the bed and then turned under. If leaves grow pale or plants seem weak, side-dress zucchini with well-aged compost or use a foliar spray of liquid fish or kelp fertiliser—high in phosphorus for fruit production. Don’t use a fertiliser too high in nitrogen; it will diminish your yield.

    Lots of flowers, no fruit. If your plants are flowering but not producing fruit, there is may not be enough bees around for pollination. Hand pollinate flowers with a cotton swab—gather pollen from the male flower and dab it on to the golden stigma in the center of the female flower.

    Harvest. Zucchini should be picked young and tender for the very best flavor. Once fruits are 4 inches long, it’s time to start the harvest. Zucchini can grow 1 to 2 inches a day so check your plants every day at harvest time. Zucchini that grows very large will be pulpy, seedy, and bitter flavoured.

    Cucumber beetles. Cucumber beetles emerge from dormancy in spring before the weather is warm enough for cucumbers or zucchini to begin growing. When zucchini starts growing, cucumber beetles will begin feeding on leaves and fruits. Check cucumber beetles–little yellow beetles with stripes or spots–with yellow sticky traps or cover plants with a floating row cover, but be sure to remove the cover when flowers appear and it’s pollination time.

    Squash vine borers. Squash vine borers (the larvae of wasp-like moths) bore into zucchini stems and eat their way through stems. Look for sawdust-like excrement near small holes to know they are present. Plants suddenly wilt and may die. Slit the damaged vine with a sharp knife and remove the borers with a tweezers. Cover the damaged section with well-aged compost and the plant will grow on.

    Blossom-end rot. Irregular watering and a soil calcium deficiency can result in poor water uptake that will result in the blossom end of the fruit (opposite the stem) becoming leathery and sunken; this is called blossom-end rot. Use ground oyster shells or a calcium-rich fertiliser to counter blossom-end rot.

    Early bearing, uniform golden, fine quality, bush type, cylindrical fruit. 50-63 days

     Likes rich well drained soil, though not heavily fertilised, add lime to obtain pH of 6.5. Keep moist.